Travel Diary: Things to Do in Goa

by John Coughlan

Feb 21, 2012

With a rich and varied history, which includes 15th century Portuguese explorers and 1970s bohemian jetsetters, today’s Goa is a feast for the senses. Catholic churches and Hindu shrines sit cheek by jowl to monuments to India’s true religion – cricket pitches – and an easygoing welcoming vibe pervades.

What to do
The best way to explore South Goa is by motor scooter. Roads are generally fairly good and traffic is light outside of the peak season at the end of December and early January. Although it is India’s smallest state, Goa boasts extremely diverse topography, and its position as an historical crossroads has left it littered with points of interest.

Fort Cabo de Rama is a prime example. Controlled variously by Hindu, Muslim, Portuguese and British occupiers over the centuries, the fort is now a charmingly underdeveloped historic monument. And the Catholic chapel within is still in use. Enjoy some of the best views of the Arabian Sea in near seclusion.

Where to stay
There are plenty of five-star hotel and resort options (and zero-star, yet comfortable beach shacks) in Goa, but perhaps none as charming as the Mayfair Hideaway Spa Resort. With just 30 rooms, the place feels intimate, but not too remote. The infinity pool faces a semi-private beach at the mouth of the Sal River, which can be reached by the hotel’s own boat.

All kinds of pampering are available at the Susegado Spa on the premises, and guests can lounge in the clubby Lighthouse room while reading a book or watching a film.

Where to shop
Like many beach destinations around the world, Goa has an unfortunate preponderance of shops selling junk ranging from novelty t-shirts to useless trinkets. The Spiral Ark Project is a refreshing respite from this, offering truly unique and local produced food, spices, clothing, furniture and art. Like much of Goa, the vibe is definitely hippie chic. If that’s not your style, the shop is also an excellent place to relax with a good book and a cup of coffee.

Where to eat
Given its seaside location and wide range of culinary influences, there is a surprising lack of great restaurants in Goa. Mr. Surya, proprietor of an eponymous beachside restaurant, has concluded that the simplest approach is best. Specialising in fresh oysters and allegedly recommended by British celebrity chef Gordon Ramsey, Surya Beach Café’s charm lies in its location right on Turtle Beach. Don’t be put off by the plastic chairs and shabby appearance – oysters served on the half shell on a secret beach is luxury enough.

Distilled from cashew nuts, feni is the local liquor and is available in both bootleg and distillery bottled form. Both are horrible. If you want to drink like a Goan, open a bottle of King’s (not Kingfisher) beer. Although it is quickly losing ground to the brewing giants, this tasty pilsner is the sentimental choice. And to complete the experience, sip your beer at a Silent Disco in Palolem Beach – Goa’s famed discotheques where patrons listen to music on colour coded headphones and DJs compete for the crowd’s affection.

For listings details for all the venues we mention in this article, click through to “Travel Diary: Things to Do in Goa”. For other articles in the Travel Diary series, read on for things to do in Cebu and Bandung.

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